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Routing a HO track
Looking for all the info i can gather on routing a HO track.
I think i've borrowed Bowmans track routing guide,so that one's covered.
Cozee,you out there.Greg did you ever get around to trying the electric fencing wire as a rail
I have seen guys talk about a rail that is like normal rail, but the top side is rounded, not flat
Mike i seen that somewhere too,but i've read so many posts lately about track routing ,i can't remember where i seen that post,if you know where it is ,please let me know where.
Thanks Mike
An xcerpt from Brad Bowmans web site

NEW!! Everybody now has a choice of 3 different styles of rail for my HO tracks.

1) - My original rail (.012" x .080"): It is (of course) gonna feel most like the Fray tracks (and The K-S-R) since that is the rail I have been using for the last 6 years, but it's kind of hard to install.
I've replaced this rail with slightly wider rail (.014" x .075"), so it'll be slightly easier on pick-up shoes.

2) - Instead of being "flat" this rail (wire) is round. Early on in my routing days, I tried using a 1/16" diameter round wire to fill the rail slot. It worked fine for T-jets, but offered WAY too much grip for magnet cars. Recently, I've found a wire that is coated with color coded plastic casing. The metal wire inside is only .044" in diameter. The test track I've built shows this new wire to have more magnetic grip than my standard rail, but not near as much as the 1/16" (.0625") diameter wire.
I'd say this wire has 10-15% more magnetic grip than my original rail.
The round wire is really easy to install, but after installation, you have to go around and sand or scrape off the top layer of the coating. Which is easy enough, but kind of a pain. The cool part about this wire is there won't be a recess next to it like the rail has. Sometimes you can accidentally marshal a cars pin into that recess and it sticks for a moment, slowing your marshaling time. Also the more rounded nature of the wire will be easier on tires and pick-up shoes.

3) - The newest rail was obtained to accommodate "high end" magnet car racers. They want a "spec" rail. So I duplicated Tomy rail (.015" x .109"). I'd say this rail has 20-30% more grip than my original rail. It's just slightly more difficult to install this rail as it is to install my smaller rail. So with the added expense of the larger rail, the extra layer of "lock wire" it will require and the extra labor involved, choosing the "tall rail" will increase the price, but to the "high end" magnet car racers, I think they will find it worth it.
Woo Hoo
Thanks Mick.
Somewhere though i ran into a post giving a number and where to get the rail,i should'a wrote it down,20/20 hindsight.
Brad Bowman sells round rail, it's .045 in diameter, 4 different colors, you have to scrape the colors off after installation, no lock wire needed. It sells for 25 cents a foot. Has slightly less downforce than Tomy style rail.
Woo Hoo
Mick:I'm not to inclined to use Bowmans idea of covered electrical wire as a rail,first off the wire becomes to easy to pull up out of it's wire casing when you remove one side of the insulation,so i've kinda discarded that idea,the rails need the ability to handle Neo cars.
More and more leaning towards using Greg's idea of electric fencing wire as a rail,still figuring out what might be the best way to lock it into place,any tips on that guys.
We're leaning away from Tomy quality rail,as we want the thing to last for a number of years,and Tomy rail ain't conducive to that,lol.
Anybody ever find a rail that was comparable to the older Tyco rail

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