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440 X 2 vs SG+
#1
Can a Tyco 440 X 2 compete against a Tomy SG+?

Our rules say that the Tomy must be standard apart from sanding down the tyres (which must remain original). A lot of people use the older Tomy's with the grey magnets that tend to be stronger than the black. The tyres can be glued on and the pickups can be bent for better contact/security.

The Tyco must run standard, except silcone's are allowed (only black ones allowed), again the tyres can be glued on if necessary and the pickups may be bent.

I'll be racing on Thursday and I did want to race something different (everyone else seems to run SG+) and my favourite is Tyco so wanted to give it a try, but only if it can be competitive!

So far I've found a Malysia chassis, front endbell with a "tick" and the rear with "four dots" and have fitted which I believ to be the fastest arm I have. I've fitted some silicones but think they might be too large at .442, unfortunately they were the only ones that the guy selling them here in the UK had at the time.

Anymore tips anyone?

Thanks

Paul
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#2
The Tyco's gonna be at a slight disadvantage if it's using a full ceramic magnet package,those old 2 dot grey G+ traction magnets are a light duty polymer magnet.
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#3
I'm a little confused now, you state "2 dot grey" magnets, the ones I'm on about haven't any dots on they're completely grey.

Paul
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#4
The dots he's refering to are actually dimples, two on each mag. Normally I'd agree the G+ would be at a slight advantage, but requiring original tires on the G+ while allowing silicones on the X2's will pretty much even the score.
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#5
I think the key will be to put a junk arm in the tyco
and run it on a figure 8 t groove the magnets.

Then run low tires.

The stock tire on the SG+ can be sanded may be hard to beat.

SG+ on short twisty tracks,
Tyco on the fast tracks

But If I was racing, I would be running the SG+ also.
make sure the sg+ has the gray tractions & not the black ones
Remember to add your races to the RACE Calendar
The RACE Calendar

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#6
Okay don't bash me too hard,but have you ever considered running a Wizzard P3E car.
They are a ready to run ceramic motor mag car that uses a low level poly traction magnet.
Wizzard released the first P2E as a G+ killer,and the P3E is an updated version.
The "E" stands for Extreme,and usually means the car has a low level poly traction magnet.
I don't know if your rules allow these cars,but they might be another avenue for you guys to try
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#7
I have actually thought about it but I'm not sure. The rules say

THE FOLLOWING APPLIES TO ALL CLASSES EXCEPT SPRINT MODIFIED

Overall width of any car/chassis must be no more than 34mm at its widest point.

Due consideration should be given to the appearance of cars used for racing.

BODIES:

Must be hard plastic, either injection moulded or resin cast.
Windows must be represented, either as a separate moulding or painted on.
The method of mounting the body must be as designed for that manufacturers chassis.
No additional attachment e.g. servo or masking tape, Blutak, etc. is allowed, neither are internal mods to ‘make the body fit better’ OTHER THAN – removing the front screw post from some early ‘transition’ Aurora bodies, which came with both screw and clip on fittings.
Bodies must be complete (apart from wing mirrors).
E.G. If they came from the manufacturer with individually attached bumper mouldings, lights, spoilers*, hard ‘glass’ or vac-formed window inserts, roof racks, etc. these must be used but can be glued in place.
Bodies can be painted.
F1and open bodied cars must have a drivers head.

* F1 cars are permitted to run without front spoilers. Broken rear spoilers may be rubber mounted in the original location.

CHASSIS:
2 Championships –( MR1 chassis for Juniors only).
Usual Annual Champs = Open and closed wheel, alternating quarterly. Chassis: Generally SG+/SG3 but all allowed.
Non-SG+ Closed Wheel = SG+/SG3 specifically excluded. Any others from the 3 Mainstream manufacturers: Tyco, Tomy, Lifelike.
(Eligibility/choice of chassis may be revised in the light of experience)  Any others , please ask.

No modifications are allowed to the chassis or running gear, which must retain the correct manufacturers axles, gears and wheels, magnets, armatures etc. as supplied by the manufacturer.
Apart from tyres: no swapping of parts between manufacturers.
Front wheels/tyres must touch the ground
Blueprinting by mixing and matching the best parts from different chassis of the same type is allowed.
Motor shields can be removed
Pickup shoes may be bent to give better contact/security but the retaining clips (bus bars) they fit into may not be altered.
Rear axle retainers, where manufacturer-supplied, can be used, removed or retro-fitted.
Oil and Comms Drops may be used but should be applied sparingly to avoid spilling onto the track. No spray lubricants or cleaners are to be used.
Stock SG+ chassis part may be transferred into a bare SG3 chassis for that class but MUST use BLACK, not grey traction magnets.

TYRES:

All tyres must be black.
All tyres can be ground down.
Super G Plus chassis must retain standard rear tyres, but sanding down/profiling is allowed.
Front tyres from different manufacturers may be used but wheels must be correct for the make of chassis.
Non-SG+ chassis may run with alternative rear tyres, e.g. sponge or silicone
Tyres may be cleaned with masking tape but parcel tape, Sellotape etc. must not be used.
No tyre treatment chemicals are permitted.

HAND CONTROLLERS:

Any make of resistor type hand controller may be use provided it is wired to club standard and has been checked by race control BEFORE use. Electronic controllers are not permitted.

SPRINT MODIFIED:

Just two rules, 34mm max. Width and the car must have a body.

Other than that, in this class only, no holds barred.
Do what you want, spend what you want, and build what you want

IN ALL CIRCUMSTANCES RACE CONTROL HAS THE RIGHT TO REJECT ANY CHASSIS OR BODY NOT CONSIDERED TO BE IN THE SPIRIT OF CHORC.


Aren't the Wizzard cars made for a lexan body? If that's the case won't it be difficult mounting a plastic F1 body to it using the original body mounting fixings?
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#8
There are hard bodies designed to fit the Wizzard chassis.
Check with Bob Lincoln at WizzardHO,he might be able to set you up with ready to run hard bodied P3E's.

"wizzardho@yahoo.com "


"info@wizzardho.com "
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#9
had to jump in here
Sorry Hornet, because I have been able to test and see the the results of races, going to a non-big 3 would say T1 not wizz.

And looking at CRL results, the p3e was no G killer :lol: :lol:
Remember to add your races to the RACE Calendar
The RACE Calendar

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#10
OK what's a T1, not heard of one of them before!

Paul
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