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tyco tips needed
#1
been a long time since I have really worked on a box stock tyco.


So I am looking for some tyco tips.

Here is what I know:
flip the motor mags around to see if that arm is faster that way
tyco brushes suck
stretch the brush springs
drop the car as low as you can

I also did some internet digging, 1 thing i saw was to point the shoe spring straight down. But my experience is to adjust the show to be as soft as possible without losing straight line speed.

any idea of VRP dyno readings that may be suggested?
shoe tension in grams?

thanks
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#2
(10-20-2015, 11:14 PM)slotking Wrote: been a long time since I have really worked on a box stock tyco.


So I am looking for some tyco tips.

Here is what I know:
flip the motor mags around to see if that arm is faster that way
tyco brushes suck
stretch the brush springs
drop the car as low as you can

I also did some internet digging, 1 thing i saw was to point the shoe spring straight down. But my experience is to adjust the show to be as soft as possible without losing straight line speed.

any idea of VRP dyno readings that may be suggested?
shoe tension in grams?

thanks

Slotking,
We race a lot of Tyco 440 X2 classes here. The west coast does not have a race organization so people are taking a lot of liberties that might be illegal elsewhere. OK, you get the point.
What I do to my cars is:
Wizzard silver motor brushes.
0.006 Wizzard silver motor springs.
Zapped Motor Magnets, match if possible. Should read high 700's, better yet over 800.
Reverse zap traction magnets.
Tyco pinion or BSRT.
Tyco Crown, better yet BSRT or Tomy SG+, run in (simichrome polish helps)
Bulkheads, front checkmark, back 4 dot.
Use 440 magnum shoes (not X2) or BSRT 236 for Tyco.
Pretty much all bodies are lowered (running Lumina NASCAR, 1st and 2nd gen F1 , later ones too heavy, Ferrari F40).
If you want a huge improvement in performance try a tomahawk lexan body from HC Slots on a wide chassis. Unbelievable difference.

If I were not allowed to use any of this stuff I would: match magnets, light pull the stock motor brushes, buff all contact surfaces with an abrasive wheel, adjust the shoe springs tuned to the track, make sure the shoes are parallel to the rails, true front (lower if possible) and rear tires (can you use super tires?).
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#3
thanks so much

we are not tech'ing but I try to keep in the so called rules.

Right now my best car is a narrow chassis running the expensive skoll (spelling) body.
be box we can run silver brushes but we can sand the front tires.

we have to run stock gears so I use the soldering iron to mesh the gears.

on my dyno i am getting around 3.11  my slottech SS cars do 4.50 or more.

i was hoping to 3.5

question
on the pan 440x2, do the softer mattel chassis work better than the hard tyco pan chassis?
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#4
(10-21-2015, 10:30 PM)slotking Wrote: thanks so much

we are not tech'ing but I try to keep in the so called rules.

Right now my best car is a narrow chassis running the expensive skoll (spelling) body.
be box we can run silver brushes but we can sand the front tires.

we have to run stock gears so I use the soldering iron to mesh the gears.

on my dyno i am getting around 3.11  my slottech SS cars do 4.50 or more.

i was hoping to 3.5

question
on the pan 440x2, do the softer mattel chassis work better than the hard tyco pan chassis?

Slotking,
I'm not sure if Mattel ever made a narrow chassis so have no answer for this question.
If you mean the wide version chassis the Mattel is junk compared to the Tyco (Hong Kong preferred, Malaysia OK). The Mattel chassis was end of life for the molds and they had been repaired a number of times by then. If you compare the 2 chassis you can see the degradation in quality in the Mattel version. If you want a softer chassis can't you boil the Tyco to interject some moisture?
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#5
thanks

I thought of boiling the black wide pan
but some where in the back of my mind I think tyco made some gray(soft) wide pans
I think I had 1 years ago?????????  But I am old, and the gray matter is rusty. Big Grin 
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#6
OK, here it is 3 years since the last post on this topic and we (the left coast) are still racing "box stock Tyco's". All of the information above is good but wait, there's more*:
Almost everyone here (San Jose Slotcar Club or SJSCC) are using independent front ends. These are commercial such as Wizzard or home made. If there is any interest I can do a presentation on how to make your own home made set ups using stock parts.
Most people are using balanced hot stock arms from Wizzard but the really fast cars are using balanced Meg G arms which are 6 ohms instead of 6.6 ohms. The arms seem to be the key to the best cars when all others factors are consistent.
Most racers are using reverse zapped traction magnets. The really fast guys are using low downforce set ups and making up for the loss of downforce with superior driving. 
Everyone are using stock motor magnets, but some are zapping to recover peak flux.
Besides this latest info pretty much as listed above in the associated posts.
A good dyno reading for a box stock Tyco is around 0.18 amps at 2600 RPM at 15 volts.

So question, who is making good arms these days?

*note that all but one** venue are on routed tracks (Bowman or Viper), all run at 15 volts.
**Tomy holdout is being replaced by Bowman track soon.
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#7
Wink 
yes!
I am interested!

Big Grin
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#8
(09-26-2018, 09:28 AM)slotking Wrote: yes!
I am interested!

Big Grin

OK, posting in General Tips.
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