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race prep
I do ok in this class but not great.
Box stock x-traction, any body that fits them, no open wheel bodies.
any stock replacement guide pin & shoes.

I finally spent some real time on it. On the DYNO, it was hitting 22.

I took the brushes out and heated them with the soldering iron till no smoke comes from the brushes. You can see the oil/moisture bubble out.

Then hammered the back gear rivet on the arm plate to reduce the rear gear slop.

Cleaned the arm, and PENed the air gap.

Put it together, and it was hitting 25 on the dyno!!

You could see & feel the difference on the track as well.

Then I changed shoes to the old G or G+ shoes with the fold over nose.
handling really got better.
It worked.

The car was smooth and easy to drive. Before yesterday, it was my number 2 car. I gave my number 1 away.

It was interesting to see how much faster the car is now!
Hello Slot King. Chassis prep is pretty important but have you tried different bodies to get your lap times down. I have. My fastest x traction sports a mazda body without the rear spoiler. My second fastest is the camaro body. The mazda body without the spoiler makes for a good handling car. Once I get my track back up and running I am going to build another one with the body as low as I can get it. One other thing I did was sand the body removing all the strange body lines, ect. to make it look more like the real car. That probably took a little wieght off as well. T-Jet Man B)
T-Jets make you smile
The body has to be stock for us.
But I did a lot of playing with bodies, and so did the other guys
What is interesting is with our independant testing, several of us came out with the same conclusion.

The AFX 917

I was trying a datsun, very light body, not a lot of butt.

but the 917, has a heavy nose, this keep the front end down, thus making for better lap times :ph34r:
Are you allowed to lower your bodies any?
No, has to be BOX STOCK.

we only allow after market shoes, guide pin, & slip on silicones
Slotking, you say that you PENed the air gap. What is that? SLO.
I take a ball point pen after I clean the comm or true the comm and run the pen with some pressure over the air gap (I do this inlines & pancakes).

This removes any sharp edges on the comm's edges
Another good tip!

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